DIY Ballistics

What is the Best Big Game Round? Your Help is Needed to Find Out

Jason Wimbiscus — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 18:25:33 +0000

I was recently part of a friendly online discussion regarding the on-game performance of the .35 Remington compared to that of the tried and true .30-30 Winchester. The experience of one gentleman was that medium and large game hit with the .35 seldom went far, while results from the .30-30 were far more variable. The ensuing discussion involved every statistic from bore diameter and velocity to bullet weight and sectional density. While the numbers associated with various rounds and loads are interesting and undoubtedly useful while comparing one projectile to another, they don’t tell the whole story. Some rounds, while seemingly inferior on paper, are exceptional performers on large game animals. Even testing in various ballistic media doesn’t necessarily predict how a load will work on game. It seems that there are too many X factors at play to predict the effectiveness of a load by crunching numbers a running lab tests.

It occurred to me that the only way to truly determine the on-game performance of a load is to analyze a large sample real world data. For example, if we examine 1000 deer hunts in which the .270 Winchester was used and look at the average distance the deer ran after being hit, and then compare the results to a sample of 1000 deer hunts in which the 6.5×55mm was employed, we can potentially determine which chambering makes the better deer round. Naturally, the comparison will have to keep similar other variables such as distance to target, and part of anatomy hit, in order to be valid. After all, it would be unfair to compare head shots to lung shots.

In order to attempt to gather such real world data, I have prepared a survey in which I hope others will participate. If you are fortunate enough to have taken a medium or big game animal in the recent past, or are fortunate enough to take one during the upcoming hunting seasons, please copy and paste the following survey into your email browser, answer the questions, and send it to jason@diyballistics.com. Please send a new email for each harvested animal so I can stay organized.

What animal was taken?

If known, what was the dressed weight of the animal?

What chambering was used during the hunt?

What was the bullet type, bullet weight and muzzle velocity, if known?

What was the distance to the target?

How was the distance to target determined (estimated, paced, range finder)?

What part of the animal’s anatomy did the projectile hit (heart/lung/liver, central nervous system, etc.)?

How far did the animal travel after being hit?

How many rounds were needed to kill the animal?

What type of sights were used (telescopic, open, peep etc.)?

Once I have had enough responses, I will run the numbers and post the results. I need large sample sizes in order for this project to be valid, so the compilation process may be lengthy. I don’t share email addresses, so please don’t hesitate to write me.

1. What animal was taken?

2. If known, what was the dressed weight of the animal?

3. What chambering was used during the hunt?

4. What was the bullet type, bullet weight and muzzle velocity, if known?

5. What was the distance to the target?

6. How was the distance to target determined (estimated, paced, range finder)?

7. What part of the animal’s anatomy did the projectile hit (heart/lung/liver, central nervous system, etc.)?

8. How far did the animal travel after being hit?

European Heavy Hitter: The Solid Brass USS Slug Tested

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:53:55 +0000

Two months ago I received an email from European Cartridge Unlimited, a Greece based manufacturer of reloading components, containing information on an interesting new 12 gauge slug called the USS (Ultra Solid Smoothbore). These slugs, which are currently offered as components for hand loading, consist of a milled, solid brass, flat point projectile encased within and mechanically locked to a stabilizing wad. The diameter of the bare, brass, projectile is .690″ with a meplat diameter of .510″. Currently, the slugs are offered in three different weights for three different hull lengths; 570 grains for 2.75″ hulls, 700 grains for 3″ hulls, and 970 grains for 3.5″ hulls. Being a shotgun slug aficionado, I just had to get my hands on a sample of these heavy hitters. I emailed the company and they were generous enough to send me a box of their 570 grain slugs to test and review.

The USS Slug loaded into a Fiocchi Hull (Left) and in it’s sabot (right).

According to Eleftherios Vasileiadis of European Cartridge Unlimited, the USS slug was formed to fill a niche in the smooth bore slug market. In Greece, the only firearms legal for hunting both large and small game are smooth bore shotguns. Further, the only big game animals that can legally be hunted are wild boar, which are known for being tough and often ornery quarry. It was felt that existing smoothbore slug technology (which has been fairly static for quite some time) left much to be desired when pursuing boar and other large, dangerous game animals. These factors ultimately lead to the development of the USS slug. Although the slugs are currently only offered in 12 gauge, projectiles for 20 gauge and .410 bore are currently in the works. Slugs for rifled barrel shotguns are also currently in development.

The first challenge in testing the slugs was working up a good load. Currently, all load data for USS slugs uses a powder called Vectan SP2. Unfortunately for me, this powder seems to be of limited availability in the United States, so I was on my own as far as load development was concerned. A quick look at a burn rate chart showed that Alliant Blue Dot has a burn rate similar to SP2, so I decided to use that powder in my trials. I started with a light charge of 30 grains in a Fiocchi hull, which yielded a velocity of 945 f/s. The slugs have to reach a velocity of at least 1250 f/s in order for the sabot petals to open up and break away properly. I gradually increased the charge until I had reached 43.0 grains for a velocity of 1356 f/s from the muzzle of my 18.5″ bbl Benelli Nova. This is where I stopped. I’m confident that further experimentation could have yielded higher velocities, but I didn’t want to run myself out of slugs during the load development process and be left without anything to fire into the test block.

Speaking of the test block, this time my approach was different than usual. Since USS slugs are designed for deep penetration, I wanted to really put them through the wringer. Rather than using the FBI standard 10% density gelatin, I doubled it to 20%. In front of this gel block, I placed 1″ of hard polyurethane plastic sheets. While hard polyurethane does not perfectly mimic bone, it was the best analogue to which I had access that would not reduce the useful life of the gel in the same manner as actual bone. Behind the gel block, I placed a series of 5/8″ plywood pieces to stop the slug should it completely penetrate the gel block. In addition to testing the USS slug, I wanted to provide a frame of reference for the results, so for the sake of comparison I also tested a 1 oz Remington Slugger (MV 1421 f/s).

The test setup used for the USS Slug. 1″ of hard plastic, 14″ of 20% gelatin, and a whole lot of plywood.

First, I fired the USS slug into the test block from a distance of 12 feet. As is evidenced by the photos below, the plastic sheeting was obliterated, the slug completely penetrated the 14″ gel block, and continued on to defeat nearly 2″ of plywood. The recovered projectile was completely unscathed, save for a few scratches. Even though I had destroyed my entire supply of polyurethane, I had a second gel block just aching to be used, so I fired the Remington slug into it without the same inch of hard plastic used to test the USS. The slug penetrated the gel block and dented, but did not penetrate the plywood backer. The recovered projectile had flattened into a lead disk .85″ in diameter.

top: The test block after being hit with the USS slug.

bottom: The entry hole made by the USS slug

The “wound” channel created by the USS. Entry is at the right end of the block.

The recovered USS. Add a new sabot and it could be fired again.

top: “Wound” channel created by the Remington Slugger.

bottom: Recovered Slugger

So far, I’m encouraged by the terminal performance of the USS slug. I am going to continue working up loads for both increased velocity and optimum accuracy, incorporating different powders, and possibly additional gas seals. I am also looking forward to testing both the 700 grain and 970 grain versions of this slug, though my shoulder will likely pay dearly for the latter.

For more information on the USS slug, visit the European Cartridge Unlimited website

Trout on Ice Part 2: Lake Trout, Landlocked Salmon, and Big Water Browns

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:47:11 +0000

Article by Jim Paige

When fishing “big waters” or when fishing for especially large trout in winter, I use totally different tactics than explained previously. It’s a whole new ballgame now, as I’m after fish that most people will usually never encounter much less land. My gear isn’t even the same. As a rule, I keep an entirely different set of tip-ups set aside for using on big trout (or salmon), or on deep waters. I use Heritage “Laker” tip-ups exclusively for this type of tip-up fishing. I have the extra-large spools rigged with standard, pale-colored 36-pound ice (squidding) line. To that I attach a quality, medium size snap swivel, then a 14-pound mono leader about 3 feet long. A smaller snap is then attached and then the hook, usually a single Eagle Claw baitholder in size #4. I never use a treble for live bait fishing. It impedes the bait and can often be felt, when the bait is taken, causing a “drop”. If possible, I use a live smelt for bait. Other, local baits may also work well, such as large, emerald shiners.

Bait size matters little when lake trout fishing. They’ll take pretty much anything they encounter, even dead baits. Big baits are simply more readily noticed by a big fish, but browns and salmon tend to prefer not-so-large baits and the livelier the better. I also apply a drop or two of smelt-oil (we use a product called Smelt-Rite) right to the hook wound on the bait. Our live baits are generally hooked just above the spine and about midway between the dorsal fin and head. This keeps the bait pretty much “level” when it’s not swimming, appearing more normal.

Lake trout can be found at all depths, depending on the body of water, the day, weather conditions, even the time of day. Weather plays a huge role. We always have our best luck the day before, or even during a big storm, but never just after. Those clear, often calm days just after a big blow always finds us home where it’s warm. Fishing after a big storm is a waste of time, as far as we can tell.

Lakers have varying habits, depending on the lake you are on. I fish some big, deep, northern lakes where these big trout never seem to leave the deep waters, or at least not for long. We may catch them in the shallows right at dawn or dusk, but otherwise they stay in the deep sections, often well below 75 feet, even in winter. Yet on other lakes, we have our best luck in waters anywhere from eight to 35 feet. Trial and error is the only way I know of to tell. Using a fish locator is not the answer. I’ve marked fish at certain depths, in certain lakes that will never seem to feed at those depths! It won’t help you to locate them if you can’t get them to hit!

top: This big winter brown was taken by this young fisherman using a tip-up and live smelt for bait, set just under the ice.

bottom: This is an “average” size lake trout for us, about 6-7 pounds.

For the most part, if fishing a new lake for lake trout, I’ll give them an assortment of set-ups to choose from, setting some tips out deep and some in shallow. Even when fishing deep though, we’ll often set the baits at various depths in the water column. Overall, our best luck has come from lines set at anywhere from 6 to 8 feet down, even when fishing in over 100 feet of water. The large schools of baitfish these big predators rely on are often deep. When attacked, some of the baitfish will get wounded but not caught. Eventually, just like in summer, they’ll float to the top and be stuck there, right under the ice. Lake trout and other large predators know to cruise at this level, looking for leftovers. And remember too, a lakers eyes and nostrils are located on the top of their heads. If your baits are set even a foot or two below where the fish are cruising, they’ll never see or smell your offering.

Many people have the mistaken impression that lakers are a “deep water” fish. This simply isn’t so. What lakers are is a cold water fish, not necessarily “deep”. I’ve fished many areas of the far north where lake trout live and can be caught right in the rivers, even in the dead of summer. That the water never warms above 50 degrees is why. So in winter, when ice covers the lakes, nearly every inch of that lake now becomes lake trout territory.

top: Lakers can get BIG! This one was about 14 pounds.

bottom: Landing a big trout is sure to bring a smile to anyone’s face!

I enjoy jigging for lake trout, especially. There’s something about hooking, fighting and landing a huge trout on tiny gear that just can’t help but be fun and exciting. I generally (but not always) fish deep though, as for the most part lake trout still tend to hang out deep, if only due to the location of the larger schools of baitfish. There are, of course, exceptions to this, such as when a school of lakers decides to enter a cove or harbor and chase a school of small perch around. At those times, jigging can be especially productive. The guys jigging perch daily can tell you just when and where that occurs. They get frustrated when large, toothy trout snip off their little bibbits time after time. I like to use a “Jigging Rapala” in firetiger color and about size W-5, at such times. I do replace the lower treble hook with a larger size though, as the one that comes with these lures simply isn’t large enough to handle lakers. It’s an easy process and I replace the tiny treble with one in about size #8 normally. A small chunk of baitfish and a drop or two of smelt-oil on the fish completes the process.

My jigging rods are a bit stiffer than the size you’d use for panfish, obviously and I use a medium size open-face spinning reel with a quality drag as well. You can’t use cheap gear when after trophy size fish. You get what you pay for generally. Buy cheap stuff and expect a cheap result. I usually use Gold Stren in 6-8 pound test for my line. It is highly visible and has good stretch to it, both factors I rely on. These new “no-stretch” lines have no value to me, as I count on the line’s ability to stretch to help me battle a huge fish on light line and tackle. I attach a quality, ball-bearing snap swivel to the line, then an 18-inch length of 14-pound mono (we use Silver Thread) as a “shock leader”. The line is then tied directly to the jig. When not using the Rapalas, I like the Spro lead-head, bucktail jigs in assorted sizes and colors. When fishing big, deep lakes like Lake Champlain (NY & VT) I use jigs anywhere from 1 to 2 ounces. I generally stick to the lighter colors too and chartreuse combinations always work well on big lake trout. The weight is to help counter both deep waters and the strong currents these big lakes tend to have, even in winter. That hi-vis line is imperative, when jigging deep. Often as not, you won’t feel the hit when jigging in 75 feet of water. But you’ll often see that line go slack or twitch once, that is, if you have line that can be easily seen! Set the hook hard as you back away from the hole. It often takes me up to 15 feet, to get all the slack up and actually connect with that fish, as I’m backing up! I then slowly work my way back to the hole, never allowing the tiniest bit of slack. Never hurry the battle with a large fish. I’ll often get a big trout to the hole 5 or 6 times before I can actually land it. Big holes are a plus when fighting and landing a big trout. I use my 10-inch auger at such times. Usually I jig two rods at once also, with one down near bottom and other only 8-10 feet down. Long, sweeping motions and “lifts” are used to jig the bucktails, which are often tipped with a chunk of smelt meat or a minnow head and that all-important smelt-oil. More often than not, the fish will hit as the jig sinks, after each lift. Watch for that line to go slack! That’s the hit!

This laker fell to a one-ounce bucktail jig.

When fishing lakes for big browns and salmon my tactics are similar as for lake trout, with a few exceptions. The tackle and set-ups are the same. What’s a tad different is that we never set baits deep. We may be over deep water, but our baits and even jigging is kept to just under the ice a few feet. After decades of trial & error, this is something I am steadfast on. If we want to catch big perch or even bass, we’ll fish deeper, but for trout in winter, we stay just under the ice. I also like to get away from the crowds, especially on big lakes. I’ll go way the heck out in the middle of the lake sometimes, just to get away from noisey neighbors on snow machines and quads. Silence is golden, especially when after big trout that are cruising just under the ice. We often space our tip-ups out a lot too, perhaps 50 yards apart, if possible.

A typical trout-fishing day begins well before daylight. We’ll cut however many holes we feel we need while it’s still pitch black out. We are baiting and setting tip-ups in the dark, using headlamps. Often as not, we arrived an hour or two before that even, just to jig for our live smelt for bait, with the aid of a lantern. The smelt can be brought right up to just under the ice early in the morning, with the aid of a lantern and are easily caught with tiny lures and a small piece of earthworm. I especially like the Hali jigs in silver, firetiger and “glo” colors. A quarter inch piece of worm on the hook completes the rig. Most days we can jig all the smelt we need in an hour or so, keeping them alive in a five-gallon bait bucket filled with lake water. I always reserve a hole just for jigging too and will jig smelt all day, just to keep us in fresh bait. Likely as not, I set about half our tip-ups down near bottom, set for big perch. My wife likes to stay “busy” when fishing and for eating, perch are at the very top of our list.

top: This is a typical catch for us while trout fishing,…lakers, big perch and smelt.

bottom: Just an “average” winter landlocked salmon (about 4.5 pounds) for us, taken on a tip-up and live minnow.

Baits for big trout and salmon are set and hooked the same as described earlier, but as I stated, set just down a few feet and no more. We try to check baits every couple hours too, to ensure they are still alive and kicking. I like the Jigging Rapala for browns too and in any number of bright colors. Salmon too, like this lure and the more it mimics a small smelt, the better it’ll work on salmon.

One big difference I’ve noticed between our methods and other fishermen is the way we treat a hit. Once a flag goes up we get to it ASAP and set the hook immediately. Some anglers seem to wait for the fish to stop, turn and swallow the bait. Often as not, at this point the fish will drop the bait and never return. Plus a fish with a swallowed hook is darn hard to release, if one needs to, such as with sub-legal fish. Set the hook quickly and release all but a couple to eat. Bring a camera and get photos as soon as the fish is landed. There is no better feeling than catching, photographing and releasing a big, trophy fish. Fish safely and remember to always check local and state laws. Not all of what I have outlined may be legal in your particular state, or on all waters. Be sure to read the laws before heading out and always check the ice thickness and hardness on a regular basis. Good luck!

A typical early morning catch of salmon, a big brown and some nice perch. These fish were taken on tip-ups and live bait.

Author Bio

Jim Paige is a well known New England outdoorsman, author and outdoor guide. He has acted as a representative and prostaffer for numerous nationally known outdoor-related companies and has been published in most national and regional publications over the years, as well as being a popular seminar speaker.

Jim lives with his wife Sherry in a small village in the mountains of Central Vermont and still is a very active hunter and fisherman. He and his wife have hunted and fished all over the country and especially enjoy ice fishing together each winter all over New England. They operate a small scent company called Ridge-Runner Scents (hunting and fishing scent products) out of their home in Middlesex, Vermont. They moved to Vermont from Alaska in 1984.

Trout on Ice Part I: Brook Trout, Rainbows, and Shallow Water Browns

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:41:42 +0000

Article By Jim Paige

Part 1: Brook Trout, Rainbows, and Shallow Water Browns

The following information is not the only way to locate and catch various species of trout, but it is a collection of methods I’ve used extensively and successfully in my over 50 years of ice fishing experience. I won’t try to cover every aspect of the sport, only a few which seem to work time and again for me and in various waters. Most of my ice fishing these days is done in the New England states, but I have fished all over this country, including Alaska, where we once lived for a few years.
I fish for rainbow and other stocked trout pretty much in the same way these days. I think the biggest key to my success when after these fish is to keep my baits small and to target these fish when they are feeding the heaviest. To me, that means being out there and all set-up to fish well before daylight. Stocked and even wild brook and brown trout tend to begin feeding right at first light each morning and in fairly shallow water. Rocky points that jut out into the lake (or pond) are excellent places to place out a string of baited tip-ups or even jigging holes. I like to get all my holes drilled or cut long before daylight, so as to allow that area to “calm down” some before we are actually fishing. Small, live minnows work well for bait on tip-ups. I like to have my tip-ups rigged with fairly light mono leaders and usually set no more than 6 or eight feet down, with but a tiny split shot or snap swivel for weight. This allows for the greatest of bait action and natural appearance. The light, clear leaders also are difficult for the fish to spot or shy away from. Later in the day these fish will move in to deeper waters, though often still cruising just under the ice. We seldom set lines deep for trout, except for lake trout.

top: We landed this nice brown trout in a shallow cove shortly after daybreak, using a small, live minnow.

bottom: As you can see, this rainbow was landed very near shore, off a rocky
point.

When fishing for rainbows, whether wild or stocked, we switch over to small pieces of earthworm and they are but lightly hooked on thin, wire hooks, usually in size #6 or #8. These are also normally set at only 5 to 6 feet down and most often in very shallow waters, usually near the entrance or exit streams or creeks. We avoid the actual flow of water or current though, instead setting up on the edges. Be especially careful of thin ice at these locations!
Another excellent place to set-up for rainbows is on any sandy bottom, such as a public beach, in waters no deeper than 8 feet. Some might argue that “powerbaits” work well, but my experience shows that a natural bait (like an earthworm) will outfish the fake baits 5-to-1. Just keep your offering small and avoid jobbing the baits on a hook. Make it look as natural as possible. We generally like to hook the small piece of worm just once and leave a lively tail showing. For whatever reason, I like using gold hooks. We often keep our tip-ups set no more than 8 to 10 feet apart. The rainbows generally arrive as a “school” of anywhere from 2 to 12 fish and I like to cover a small area where I feel the fish will pass through. If you miss the strike on one line, often as not, you’ll immediately get a hit on a very nearby tip-up.
These fish won’t hang on to the bait for very long so don’t walk casually over and expect the fish to run out, then swallow the bait. The fish will likely be gone 2 out of three times, even if you sprint to the hole as soon as the flag goes up. I like to sit in the very center of my tip-up spread and jig; close enough to the tip-ups so I can hear when one goes up. I then immediately dash to the tip-up and grab it and set the hook as I’m going by! You’ll soon see why this works, once you try it a few times. These fish are hitting on instinct most often, not because they feed on earthworms in midwinter! They’ll usually drop the bait within seconds. Other baits that work are a single salmon egg, mealworm, or corn kernel. Be sure to check on the legality of all baits before fishing in your state.
For this reason, jigging can be an especially deadly method on winter rainbows. I sit on a stool, poised by the hole, with a tiny bobber hooked to my light mono line. I either have a tiny wet fly or small piece of worm for an offering, again, set just a few feet under the ice. At the slightest movement of that bobber I do what I refer to as a “straight lift” to set the hook. Instead of trying to battle the fish with the tiny reel, I simply apply gentle, steady pressure by backing slowly away from the hole. The fish will eventually land itself, when it reaches the top of the hole, by jumping out, on to the ice. For this reason, I like to use a 10-inch auger blade, when cutting my holes. During extreme cold, this also keeps the holes from icing-in solid so quickly.
The next important thing to know about ice fishing for rainbows is to be there super early. Rainbows will often begin hitting well before daylight. My wife and I have limited out, more often than not, before it is ever fully daylight. The fish often start hitting by 4:00-4:30 AM! We wear headlamps when setting-up and even when fishing. Browns and brookies are more apt to wait until just daybreak to begin hitting, but not the ‘bows. Our winter fishing trips for these fish are generally done by about 9:00 AM.

top: This two-person VT limit of 1.5-pound rainbows was taken before daybreak very near an exit stream, in the shallows of a deep, northern lake, late last winter.

Winter rainbows are usually of very high quality, as table fare.

bottom: This is a classic male/female pair, landed from the same hole, just minutes apart.

Often as not, we meet the majority of ice fishermen as they are just walking out, ….and we are leaving for the day. It’s no wonder to me that they seldom catch any rainbows. Almost all are using live minnows for bait and most are fishing way too deep and get there way too late for the days’ action. I’ve even run in to folks using whole nightcrawlers on tip-ups for bait. Not surprisingly, they catch few if any rainbows. A whole nightcrawler, even a small one, will supply us with enough bait to set-out 4 or 5 tip-ups.
If jigging is your only option, such as when live baits are outlawed, stick to very small presentations (such as tiny nymphs or other small wet-flies) and keep movement of your fly or jig to a minimum. Perch may like a lot of action,… but brown, rainbow and brook trout do not, for the most part. Fish tend to “slow down” both their general activities and their feeding, during the cold waters of winter. Adapt by slowing down your presentations.

Author Bio

Jim Paige is a well known New England outdoorsman, author and outdoor guide. He has acted as a representative and prostaffer for numerous nationally known outdoor-related companies and has been published in most national and regional publications over the years, as well as being a popular seminar speaker.

Backyard Boat Building for Real Beginners

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:36:10 +0000

Article By Dan Gosselin

-1-

At some point we have all said, or at least heard the sentence, “I’m going to build a boat”. I said this exact sentence some 20 or so years ago. I too was a rank amateur; a beginner in the world of wooden boat building. My only experience was some simple carpentry skills and the only real tools I had were a drill, hammer, and saw, saber saw, and circular saw. I also had the basic measuring tools and squares and levels. Yeah, I was going to build a boat.
Building your own wooden boat doesn’t have to be the mystical art that it has always appeared to be. Whether it is several boards nailed across two logs, or a shapely plank-on-frame world cruiser, they can all be built by beginners.
First of all, I want to say right out front that I am in no way, shape, or form a professional boat builder. I have built several plywood skiffs and prams as well as several wood-strip canoes and kayaks. With the plywood boats it seems as soon as one was completed somebody else wanted it more than me. Money was talking and I was listening. Most of these buyers were friends or acquaintances.
I built my first boat out of necessity and was hooked right from the start. It has taken me years of poring through books, magazines, and study plans to get to where I’m comfortable with my ability to decipher the study plans and then build these craft, and I hope to cut through much of that to get you, the beginner, the straight skinny.
My intention here is to show a person looking to build his or her first boat the very basics of what options are available. There are numerous books on the subject and I suggest you take some time to at least familiarize yourself with the terminology given in them when you begin your hunt for plans. Where I assume I am addressing true beginners, I will limit my information to plywood and wood-strip construction. These are two areas with which I have experience and I am always glad to share my successes and failures.
I have been sailing since I could walk, but for my own first boat I was fortunate enough to stumble upon an old 18 foot flat-bottomed wooden fishing skiff. Long, wide, and very heavy, it needed just a little work to get it floating again and I jumped at the $50 price tag. The simple repairs turned into a whole lot of sweat, new words, and the use of tools I didn’t even own. A new stem and inner stem were needed before it would float again. A stem is the triangular piece at the bow that holds the side planking together. But I have to say I was hooked. So here I am with a great family friendly boat ready for outings and fishing for bluefish and striped bass, but there was one problem. It was tied to a mooring fifty feet from shore and either I continuously borrowed a dinghy to get to it, or I swam out to my mooring. Ask anybody who has swam in the water along the coast of Maine and they too will agree I needed a dinghy. Buying a safe usable boat was out of the question, so building one was my only option. I’m a person who hates building square and true and I’m going to build a boat? Yeah, I did.
The first thing I did was go to my local public library and looked through the boating section. I settled on a book by Harold ‘Dynamite’ Payson called Building the New Instant Boats. I will have more books listed in the Resources section later. The designs were all by Phil Bolger and I knew I had hit pay dirt. All of the boats described can be built from the drawings in the book or plans can be ordered from Harold Payson. They are all to be built from plywood and simple lumberyard materials. My kind of easy. A quick trip to my local lumberyard and a few days later I had the boat built and ready for paint. I used this boat for almost 3 seasons before somebody made me an offer I couldn’t refuse. It also gave me the nudge to build a bigger work type boat that was safer for doing mooring and dock work.
So get out there, find a set of plans you like, and build a boat. And by all means don’t be afraid to visit your local library, or get on the Internet and do some research before you plunk down the cash for plans you just won’t use.

-2-

Plans and Patterns

Plywood Construction

Again, I want to be up front with everybody and state that I am not a professional boat builder. I will speak from my experiences in building with plywood and wood-strip.
I will first discuss plans for simple plywood boats. By simple I really mean the most basic hull you can build, but basic doesn’t mean it has to be ugly. Take the time to do your research and you will find many great looking boats to be built from basic sheet plywood.
What you get for plans or patterns can make the difference between having a pleasant boat building experience or a nightmare. I was fortunate in my first boat building venture. The plans in the book I borrowed from the library were complete, meaning all I had to do was transfer the measurements and mark and cut the material. Not all plans are that easy. Some plans, either ones purchased or taken from a book, will require you to loft the final mold shapes. Lofting is taking written measurements from what is called a Table of Offsets compiled by the designer and then measuring and marking out the lines to produce the finished shape of a particular mold. Lofting is a learning experience in itself and I won’t even begin to describe the process here because I have just a basic knowledge about it myself. I will list a book on lofting in the Resources section.
The simplest plans, like the type I used for my first boat, will give all of the dimensions for each piece that goes into the boat. This means that you will be given measurements to lay out everything from the hull side panels to the seat flats to the bottom.
Measure, mark, measure again, and cut. Take the time to look the plans over, and then look them over again. I like to “build” the boat in my head before I even touch the wood. What simplifies things is that many plans have the builder lay out all the measurements on a grid that has been previously laid down on the building material. The grid I’m mentioning here is usually a series of vertical lines extending up 90 degrees from the baseline. In the case of plywood, this would be the plywood factory edge. For example, the plan will show a view of the hull side. On this drawing will be shown a series of lines spaced at a regular interval, usually 12″. These lines will look similar to a picket fence running up the sheet of plywood. To lay out the true shape of the hull side we will take the dimensions at each 12″ interval and transfer them to our sheet of plywood. For a side panel you will find a minimum of two dimensions for each 12″ line: one measured up from the base line to what will be the boat bottom, the second measured up past the first to the sheer, or what will eventually be the rub rails. Imagine looking at the side of the boat while on your hands and knees. The first mark measured from the base line would be along the bottom of the boat. The second mark goes above that first mark to the top edge, or the sheer. Once all of these dimensions have been transferred we connect the marks running parallel to the baseline, then connect the marks running along the sheer. The sheer line will normally have more curve to it To connect these marks you will need a long, knot-free, limber stick roughly ¾”x ¾” and at least two feet longer than the boat to be built. This stick is called a batten. Make certain that when you bend the batten to a curve there are no humps or bumps in the stick that will throw off your measurements. Sometimes it just happens that not all of the marks you’ve laid out will touch the batten when it is sprung to the curve. Measure the offending marks again to verify your own measurements. If everything checks out and the curve swings by the offending mark in a sweet curve, mark it. In boat building a fair curve supersedes any measurement. That’s why I like boats over houses. The last two lines to be drawn will be the bow, or stem, and the stern. This will give us the full shape of the hull side panel. If you are satisfied with the look of the panel you can cut it out. If your cuts are true you can use the first panel as a template for the second. Remember: the panels need to be mirror images. If you marked the first panel on the “A” side of the plywood, then you need to mark the second on the “B” side. This makes more sense if you are using pricier fancy plywood.
Dimensions for frames, stem pieces, and even the transom or stern are all found in the plans. Many plans will show only one-half of a mold shape or shape of the stern or transom.
All you need to do is duplicate these measurements to the opposite side to complete the shape. Paying close attention to the dimensions and accurate measuring when transferring the lines will pay off with smooth fits and no headaches. It sounds overly simple and it is. There are also bevels and miters to be taken into consideration. There is a curve to the boat bottom that runs from bow to stern. Some plans call for no bevel to be taken from the frame members while some do require bevels due to the amount of curvature. The more surface area the on the mold or frame that the plywood panels can land means more surface for adhesive and overall strength. You would be surprised at what a difference a few degrees of bevel can do to make the plywood and frame or mold meet well. Frames may also have bevels depending on the amount of curvature involved. Where frames go from vertical to horizontal you will need to cut them with a miter to meet in a good joint. The plans will show what the miter will be. Sometimes you will get lucky and the plans will have full-sized drawings of the miters and bevels. If this is so then you can use a bevel gauge or square to pick up the bevel directly from the plans. If there are many different bevels in a particular plan I often make a bevel board for reference. I note all of the bevels required and lay them out along the edge of a board at least 6″ wide then mark all the bevels with their required degree. Now I can go back and easily pick up the bevels from my board instead of laying out the plan sheets every time I need to pick up a bevel. If you take the time to thoroughly read the plans and instructions before touching any materials you can save yourself much aggravation.
The type of plans I like combine the hull shape mold into the finished framework of the boat. Like the word implies, a mold makes the plywood take the shape of the boat’s hull. Often this frame is combined with a seat, forming a girder or “T” of sorts, to hold the hull to its final shape. Using thin plywood in conjunction with 1″x2″ framing around the perimeter creates a beam liked those used in residential carpentry. Each piece on its own is not that strong but taken together as a whole it is incredibly strong. Some plans require you to build a separate mold used to bend the plywood panels into the hull shape. Once the hull is assembled the mold is removed and can be discarded or used to build another hull.
Some books of designs, like the ones for wood-strip canoes or kayaks, will provide tables of offsets from which you can lay out your own building molds. Again, you would have to loft these mold shapes. Even using the most care in transferring the dimensions, some errors can creep in, resulting in unfair molds. If not caught right away these small errors can and will rear their ugly heads further into the building process causing issues all their own. That means time to pull up the moaning chair and think things through. More on the moaning chair later.
The designer most often will sell patterns for the finished mold shapes for a modest price. The plans and patterns will usually come with an instruction booklet. This is the way I prefer to go where my lofting skills just aren’t where they could be. By purchasing full patterns you can rest assured that any errors in measurements that the designer may have made in transferring the numbers into his table of offsets have been corrected and eliminated. These patterns will ensure that if you set everything up correctly you will get a fair hull right off. Fair means that the hull shape will be sweet with ho humps or hollows. Using the patterns is quite easy. There are several methods that can be used to transfer the patterns to mold stock, from carbon paper to pin pricks, so I won’t go into specific methods here. Keep in mind that legally you are entitled to build one boat from the plans or patterns you’ve purchased. Any hulls you build from the plans after the first require you to pay a royalty to the designer. Just a legal tidbit I felt obligated to pass along.

Sample plan sheet for flat bottom plywood skiff. Dimensions are shown for most parts,

and where not shown they are listed in a parts key elsewhere on the plan sheets

(Image Courtesy of Build the New Instant BoatsHarold “Dynamite” PaysonInternational

Marine/Ragged Mountain Press)

Support for middle seat is also mold and frame for hull sides.

Sample table of offsets for wood-strip canoe. (Image Courtey of Canoecraft:
Ted Moores and Merilyn Mohr
Firefly Books Ltd.)

-3-

Wood-Strip Construction

Plans for wood-strip boats like canoes and kayaks require a series of molds set up on a strongback to get the designed shape to the hull. New word: strongback. This is simply the platform or jig you will use to set up the molds to build your strip hull. As I stated in the section about plans for plywood hulls, I strongly suggest you purchase the plans and full patterns from a reputable seller. This will cut your work and stress level in half. I have lofted a bow mold pattern for one type of canoe so I could use it in another design because I wanted a different bow profile. I spent probably twice the time needed just in double and triple checking my measurements. I went the lofting route because I didn’t want to spend the money for a full set of canoe plans for a canoe I never had intention of building. If you are confident in your skills and want to try lofting your own molds by all means give it a try. I suggest a quiet area with plenty of work space and the moaning chair handy.
The molds will look like a skeleton when they are set up on the strongback. Looking down the row of molds you can see what the finished hull will look like. Depending of the shape of the hull, symmetrical or asymmetrical, you will have a different number of patterns. In a symmetrical hull several of the molds will be duplicates to be used at opposite ends of the strongback. This can save you quite a bit of time in marking of the molds.
The plans and patterns you use will most likely have an instruction manual. Before touching a tape measure take the time to thoroughly read the instructions and look at every detail of the plans in order to completely familiarize yourself with the task at hand. The moaning chair can become your best friend otherwise.
Setting up the completed molds onto the strongback has to be the most tedious aspects of strip construction. Attention to detail here will pay off down the road. This is where plum, level, square, and true make all the difference in the world. Every hull design has its own layout for the mold spacing. I have found that generally a 12″ spacing is the norm. You can also stretch this spacing a little bit at each mold to make a 16′ canoe or kayak a little longer. A word of caution: Stretching or compressing the mold spacing can have adverse effects on the hull. If in doubt contact the designer or simply choose another design.
Building your strongback will require basic carpentry skills and lumberyard materials. The same holds true for the molds themselves. I won’t go into transferring the patterns to plywood because it can either be really simple or involved depending on the type of patterns. I always like it when setting up the molds is done and I can finally start working with the wood that makes up the finished hull.

Building molds for a 16′ canoe set up on the strongback. Note the first strip temporarily held in place while fairing.

I started gluing the strips not long after this photo was taken.Another view of the building molds set up on the strongback. T

he pink string is to align the mold centerlines.

top: Finished 16′ wood-strip canoe. This was a wedding gift for my daughter and son-in-law.

bottom: Wood-strip Cosine Wherry. 14′ and 120 lbs.

top: 14′ wood-strip kayak

bottom: 17′ wood-strip kayak

Materials

Plywood Construction

Let’s keep things simple here. There are many types of wood that are used in boat construction. For the beginning boat builder, lumberyard material is a great way to go. I have built many plywood hulls using lumberyard wood and almost all of these boats are still seeing active service. But, and there has to be a but, these boats are all kept well maintained. Paint every spring, stored upside down on saw horses or blocking, and well ventilated to keep things dry. The ones that haven’t survived are those that I just beat the life out of knowing that I was going to get my money’s worth many times over. Your boat, your call.
I have no problem using lauan plywood for hull construction. I did some destructive testing of my own and was satisfied with my results. Be advised though; the lauan needs to be sealed throughout, preferably with epoxy. I have used just paint as a sealer but had to be diligent in watching for delamination. If you are careful with marking and cutting lauan will give you a beautiful bright hull. The mahogany veneers look great with several coats of varnish or polyurethane. I have also used AC and BC plywood with good results. AC and BC refer to the grade of the veneers on the finish and back sides. One drawback to using lumberyard plywood is that you are limited to 8’ sheets. Don’t let this deter you. There are ways to make short sheets long. Scarfing and butt blocks are two ways. Scarfing simplified is gluing two edges together after having planed matching bevels on each piece. When you use butt blocks, you butt the two sheets together and use a smaller piece of the same material to span the glue joint. Glued and fastened with nails, screws, or even staples, the butt block is an acceptable alternative to scarfing. You can clearly see the butt blocks just aft of the bow seat in the photo of the flat bottom plywood skiff. Longer sheets of plywood are available but the price gets up there. Specialty lumber outlets will caryy this longer plywood.
When it comes to the non-plywood pieces, once again lumberyard lumber will save you many dollars. Many of the plans for plywood boats that I have seen simplify things for the builder by calling out nominal sized materials. This means that you can go to your local lumberyard and get 1x and 2x stock. This means that a 1”x2” will actually measure ¾”x1 1/2”. If you have purchased any lumber at all from a lumberyard or home center you know what I’m saying here. If the plans do call for full dimension material there are still yards that carry it. You can also double the members to make them slightly oversized. Be sure to use good waterproof adhesive and corrosion resistant fasteners.
If you have your heart set on that fancy veneer plywood like you see on those canoe and kayak web sites or books of plans, there are sources. Instead of trying to list them here I would suggest finding where the fancy web sites get theirs, or looking in the classifieds in WoodenBoat magazine. Keep in mind that just because the designer calls for one species of wood, you have the option of using another species that is more pleasing to you. But also be warned that the designer may have called for a specific species for rot resistance or structural integrity. Again, do your homework.
Wood for trim can be almost anything you like. Keep in mind that using softwoods for rub rails means you need to be a little more careful coming alongside a dock or when you flip the boat over onto the carry racks on top of your car or truck. Hardwoods take the abuse a little better and the contrast in colors can make an excellent design statement. Attaching oarlocks or thole pins will be another concern. Screws used to attach hardware need to get a good bite and the hardware needs to be well bedded to keep water out.

Wood Strip Construction

When it comes to wood-strip construction, wood matters. The majority of wood-strip boats that I have seen have been bright finished. This means the wood is seen under several coats of varnish or polyurethane. Again, I’ve simplified things. Wood strip hulls are built using thin strips of wood glued edge to edge, smoothed out, then sheathed with fiberglass cloth and epoxy, or as a less expensive alternative, polyester resin. Because you can see the full grain of the wood strips this is an area you where you don’t want to skimp. I have seen many different types of wood used in wood-strip construction. By and far, the wood used most often is either red cedar or eastern white cedar. Inlays and accent stripes can be added to the hull layup. That piece of curly maple might look great in the hull as an accent, but when it comes time to smooth up the hull the surrounding soft wood will sand away much quicker than the maple. Just because the boat you want to build is over 16’ you don’t need to buy the longest material they make. As long as you stagger the joints in the planking you can use shorter, less pricey lengths. The easiest way to estimate the number of boards you will need to mill the strips is to measure around the widest mold where you will be attaching the planking. If, for example, your measurement is 55”, that means approximately 55 strips. I always add 15% extra because the strips will already be only ¾” wide, plus with the bead and cove edges this width shrinks to about 5/8” wide. Figure on three plank strips per inch of board width. If you are careful, this will also cover mistakes. I always look for flat grain boards to rip into my plank strips. Once the planks are ripped on the table saw the strips are now vertical grained. I have also used vertical grain boards and the color and grain patterns in the finished hull can be quite dramatic. Be careful when smoothing the hull while using flat grain strips when you plane the joints in the planking. Working against the grain can not only produce chatter marks, but can also lift a grain ’feather’ making further smoothing harder.
Once you’ve decided on the type of hull material you want, it’s time to consider milling the wood into strips. Most plans call for strips that are ¾” wide by ¼” thick. If you already own the tools you can mill the strips yourself. I can mill the strips for a 16’canoe in just over 4 hours. This includes ripping the strips on a table saw then adding the bead and cove edges on a router table. There are also sources where you can buy the wood strips ready to use. Having never purchased these machined strips myself I can’t really quote a price. Many of the sites selling plans will also sell wood strips. With all of the types of wood available, I won’t even try to get into what to use here.
The types of wood you will use for trim in plywood construction can also be used in wood-strip construction. The designer may suggest a species of wood for particular parts of the design. Again, use good judgment if making changes away from what the designer specified.
One last thing to consider when it comes to wood is a kit boat. There are many great kits out there that are perfect for the beginner. Plywood kits come with pre-cut parts ready to glue together. Kits requiring molds will also have the material for molds supplied or even the molds themselves cut out. In wood-strip kits, many come with the molds either pre-cut or ready to cut. The wood strips have been milled and the bead and cove edges machined. There will be some cuts to be made by the builder but again, not having purchased a kit I can’t speak to this point.

Non-Wood Materials

I’ve mentioned before the use of lumberyard materials in building a boat. There comes a point where you will have to find a different source for certain non-wood items. Glue is not a serious concern. Basic yellow carpenter’s glue can be used in some areas, and this can be found at your local lumberyard or home center. I don’t spend the extra for water resistant yellow glue because in most cases the wood will be sealed under a coat of epoxy sealer, or at the very least good quality paint. Many other glue jobs will require epoxy or other special adhesives. The way I see it, it’s like this: if you’re going to use epoxy for taping joints on plywood boats or for sheathing the hull on a canoe, you might as well use it for gluing what has to be glued here too. Stem laminations, breast hooks, frame members, all become structurally stronger with epoxy as the adhesive. There are several types of epoxy resins and hardeners on the market, and add to that the numerous additives and it gets confusing fast. Here is where doing your homework pays off. Probably the two most popular are WEST System and MAS. I have used both and like each. Both are easy to use with both the metering dispensing pumps and additives. The difference I’ve found is cost. Where I live WEST System is carried by several better lumberyards and marine supply stores. I guess I paid a little more for this convenience. MAS is somewhat cheaper but I have to order it on-line or through a local marine supply store. Buying in a larger quantity saved me the shipping cost where the supplier paid that cost. Sometimes you can order on-line and have it shipped to your local store saving the shipping cost. Do your homework.
Epoxies are two part adhesives and this limits the open or working time you have after mixing. READ ALL OF THE DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS. The manufacturer of the epoxy you choose will supply any and all information you might want. I won’t get into the use of epoxies because there are many sources describing the use.
If you’ve done any body work on your car or seen it done you will be familiar with polyester resin. It is quite a bit cheaper to buy, but you pay a price in the ease of use, or lack of ease. Adhesion, or lack of adhesion to wood is the biggest reason I switched to epoxy. Add to that the health concerns. Sensitivity is just one of many concerns when you use polyester resin. Grab a handful of pink insulation and rub it on your skin. See what I mean. I won’t even go into the styrene, MEK-P, and other wonderful chemicals. I’m not saying that epoxy is hazard free, but the hazards are far fewer. Your choice. Cost vs. health and adhesion, especially with oily woods.
Fasteners are next on the list. Drywall screws are great, but not in a boat. Even if buried under epoxy putty or wood plugs. Steel rusts. Stainless steel or bronze are the way to go. Ring shank nails are great and can be found almost anywhere. These look similar to those little nails you use to put up wall paneling. If your local supplier can’t get them they can be found on-line. I have used both bronze and stainless and usually stay with stainless because of cost. Ring nails and epoxy are an incredible combination. Screws are the same. Stainless or bronze. Bronze may have to be sourced on-line if you live away from a marine supply store. Avoid using brass screws unless you really want that look. Structurally, they are weak and they need well sized pilot holes when being driven into any wood. This isn’t to say that you don’t need pilot holes for stainless or bronze. With brass it seems you just look at them funny and the head snaps off.

Fiberglass tape and cloth is something you will use plenty of. Avoid special deals from industrial distributors if they can’t guarantee their cloth is compatible with epoxies or polyester resins. I’m lucky enough to buy mine locally but marine supply dealers on-line will carry it as well as those web sites that sell the fancy canoes and kayaks. The plans you use will dictate what weight cloth or what width tape to use. Cloth comes in many weights like 4oz, 6oz, etc. This means ounces per yard. I use 6oz for just about everything. It’s worth the extra cost to buy the widest width cloth you can just to avoid sanding overlaps or seams. Tape width is self explanatory. Often you will use several widths of tape overlapping to build up a strong joint. This is mostly where bulkheads or frames meet the hull, or the deck of a kayak meets the hull.
There are a large number of brushes and squeegees that can be used in wetting out fiberglass cloth so I won’t go into that here. All of the manufacturers of the epoxies and polyester resins will also sell these items or at least make a recommendation.
Hardware used to finish out the hull comes in many materials. Just like screws and nails you want to avoid steel. Oarlocks and oarlock sockets are probably the first things that come to mind. Look at catalogs and make your own decision. If you are anywhere near salt water, go with the bronze. I have used chrome over zinc with some success but I pay a tradeoff for the cheaper price with a shorter life. If you’ve taken the time to make a beautiful boat don’t scrimp when it comes to the final details. I have had good success using the black plastic deck cleats and eye straps on my kayak decks. I had used them previously on my work skiffs and they held up to just about everything I threw at them. Keep in mind that I was also dock building at the time and was towing 1000lb plus floats across open water.
Oars and paddles are another choice. I have both ash and painted oars and like both. They both need yearly maintenance. Paddles are a personal choice. I can’t remember the last time I bought a paddle. I have head great success making my own from ash, spruce, and even pine. The one thing I was sure to do was thoroughly seal the wood with epoxy. After that I used either varnish or oil based polyurethane.
Epoxy in itself gives you a beautiful finish and it’s all you need if your boat will never see sunlight. UV radiation will eat the epoxy finish if left unprotected. For years I used nothing but real spar varnish. But with the new VOC environmental laws the quality of real varnish just hasn’t been the same. Maybe I need to be a little less frugal and spend the big bucks on the fancy stuff. Instead, I have gone to using oil based polyurethane. While the gloss finish isn’t quite the same as varnish, the cost makes the difference. Protection is what we’re after. Read and follow the directions for use and clean-up.
Paint has caused more arguments among boat owners than you can shake a stick at. There are many marine finishes out there and it will take some homework to learn the pros and cons of each. I have used Petit and Interlux paints with great results. That’s when I wanted to spend the money. When I had work boats I used oil based porch and deck polyurethanes. They are tough and come in many colors. I’ll even confess right here that I have used latex house paint on one boat I had and it worked great. Purists are probably cringing about now. If you’re like me and would rather use the boat than work on it, go with what makes you happy. I do all my fitting-out in the spring and do nothing but enjoy the boat all season. This isn’t to say that I don’t maintain things. An occasional bath and touch-up on the brightwork as needed are quick fixes. I really love the looks on peoples’ faces when I drag a wood-strip kayak over the banking as if I were intentionally destroying it. I later explain that wood-strip boats are very rugged and easily repaired IF they do get damaged.

Lastly, you’ve just poured some serious money into building your boat so don’t cheap out of the carrying rack for your car or truck. This goes for a trailer too. Nothing like towing a $4000 boat on a $100 trailer. This goes for running rope through door openings or windows after setting the canoe on a blanket atop your car.

Tools and Shop Space

When I started boat building I believe I had the minimum homeowner tools; electric drill, hand saw, saber saw, and circular saw. I also had a couple of try squares and a framing square. I managed to build a pretty good boat even if I had to borrow a plane and some clamps to finish a few things.
Here’s a short list of what I feel I need to build either a plywood or wood-strip boat:

Hammer
Cordless or corded drill with bits
Countersink bits
Japanese pull saw
Try squares, one 12” and one 6”
Framing square
2’ level
4’ level is helpful
Staple gun
Chalk line
Roll of string
Bevel guage
Block plane
Spokeshave
Utility knife
Random orbit sander
Shop Vac
Hearing protection
Safety glasses
Cartridge type respirator
C-clamps- as many as you can get
Quick Clamps
Moaning chair

Nice tools to have:

Table saw
Band saw
Jointer
Stationary combination belt/disk sander
Router table with router
Router bits

I’m sure I’m missing something here but you can always do what I do when I need a tool: borrow or buy it.

I mentioned a moaning chair here and elsewhere in this article. Some of you may have caught on to what I mean. A moaning chair is a really essential tool in the shop. Picture this: you’ve glued up some beautiful pieces of cherry for a canoe deck and have had it sitting on the bench curing for the last 24 hours. You go to check on it and realize you’ve glued the wrong side of one piece up instead of down. Too late. The epoxy has cured and now what. You drop into your moaning chair and start to think of what to do now. The moaning chair can also be used to sight down a hull while you smooth things up. Getting down low to eyeball things and be comfortable at the same time. You need a moaning chair.
Clamps are another thing. Get as many as you can get your hands on. If your budget is tight here’s a good substitute for light duty clamping: get a couple of feet of schedule 40 PVC pipe, 2”. Cut 1” thick slices to make as many rings as you can. Once you have the rings cut go ahead and cut the rings down the side so they open like a C. These cheap clamps will apply considerable force and I have found I can use them for work on two hulls before I toss them.
Here is one instance where I will recommend using drywall screws. In wood-strip planking, especially where you don’t want to use staples to hold the planks, you can use wedges and feathers. I take two pieces of scrap hull planking, about 4” long, lay one atop the other, then drill a hole through the two about halfway down the length. Here’s where you will use the drywall screw: slip a flat washer down the screw then screw down through the two pieces so they move like a propeller. When you need a little help holding a plank down to the mold and up against the previously installed plank screw the pair about ½” away from where the next strip will go on, into the mold not the previous strip. Now you can turn the top strip of the pair as a toggle to hold down the strip being installed against the mold then snug the screw. The scrap that is on the bottom is now the wedge. Use another piece of scrap planking cut to a wedge shape. Slip this under the ‘toggle’ piece and up against the wedge piece. This will apply a spreading force to the plank strip being installed up against the previously installed plank. These hold down jigs can be used over and over until the wood just falls apart. You’ll want at least ten of these. Read this again and it will make sense.
Here’s another jig I use. I take pieces of ½” plywood cut to 3”x5” rectangles. From these rectangles I cut out a chunk along one of the 3” edges so the piece resembles an elongated C. I once again use a drywall screw in one of the legs of the C and screw it into the flat face of the mold where I need pressure. Now I can rotate the C enough to slip in two to three plank strips then slide another wedge as I described before to put force against the hull mold. Here’s what you should be picturing: Standing alongside the building strongback you can see the edges of the plywood molds. When I say screw to the flat side of the mold I mean the side where you traced out the mold shapes onto the plywood. Got IT? Now, the two piece hold down jigs I described earlier you want to screw these into the edge of the plywood mold. Ted Moores’ books Kayakcraft and Canoecraft show these jigs in use.

Shop space doesn’t have to be fancy but it needs to be weather tight. If you plan to build over the winter where it gets cold, then you will also need heat. Keep in mind that if you build indoors in a living space, you will be using some type of chemical be it a glue or paint and it will stink. Something to keep in mind.
Floor space is important too. You should have at least two feet at either end of the building mold or hull itself plus several feet along each side. I have built a few canoes in my garage where I had to wheel the strongback out after I opened the door just so I could attach hull plank strips and have them extend beyond the end of the hull. I was lucky because I knew where the high and low spots were in my floor and could move the strongback there each time keeping it level. If you are lucky enough to be working on a wooden floor you can level and plumb the strongback or building platform then screw it to the floor to keep it that way.
Having a warm space is important in gluing and using epoxy. Think before using any heating device that uses an open flame.

A quick note on safety: before using any power tools, read and understand all directions and warnings. The same holds true for any chemical you may use to build the boat. Safety glasses and hearing protection are a must. I hook my random orbit sander to my shop vac and it draws away around 95% of the sanding dust. Investing in a cartridge filter respirator for using epoxy is money well spent.

Just as a last comment on tools and shop space. If you don’t need a specific tool and maybe won’t use it ever again, try borrowing it or renting it. When it comes to shop space, maybe a friend with usable space might want to build his own boat too. Offer to help him with his in exchange for the use of his shop space. I’ve seen this happen often. More people have started building their own boats after seeing another friend building one and that has started a domino effect. You might consider getting a small group together and renting a space short term. There are often people who just aren’t ready to build their own boat but would like to help others while gaining experience. Maybe they could help by providing work space. Enough said.

I hope that after reading this you aren’t even more confused than when you started. I have learned all of this through personal experience, reading all I can about boat building and design, and from paying attention to experienced builders. A teacher told me many years ago that the only stupid question is the one you don’t ask.

About the Author

Wood…Water…Happiness

While I am not a professional builder I have built a number of canoes and plywood boats for paying customers. The large majority of these customers were people I knew or were recommended to me by other people I knew. Until I can truly get set up as a business to build full time I will continue to take small jobs when I can.
The name Wood…Water…Happiness comes from the personal philosophy of mine. Wooden boats, being on the water as often as I can, and drawing happiness through the building and use of beautiful wood boats. I look at building a wooden boat as a form of therapy. Running my hands over the hull when I smooth the planks, eying the sweet lines of the hull taking shape, the smell of the wood be it cedar, pine, or other aromatic wood. I don’t see it as work because I can spend 16 hours a day easily in the shop and time goes by in a flash.
I’m always willing to talk about wooden boats, so if you would like to ask me a question or send me a comment you can reach me at laxreff@msn.com .
I hope to have my web site up and running soon and when it is you will be able to get the address here at this site.

Resources

Books

Build the New Instant Boats
Harold “Dynamite” Payson
International Marine/Ragged Mountain Press
ISBN 0-07-155966-3

Kayakcraft
Jennifer andTed Moores
WoodenBoat Publications

Canoecraft
Ted Moores and Merilyn Mohr
Firefly Books Ltd.
ISBN 1-55209-342-5

Lofting
Allan H. Vaitses
ISBN 0-937822-55-8

Rip, Strip, & Row
A builder’s Guide to the Cosine Wherry
J.D. Brown
Tamal Vista Publications
ISBN 0-917436-02-4

Boats with an Open Mind
Philip C. Bolger
International Marine
ISBN 0-07-006376-1

WoodenBoat Magazine

The books I’ve listed above can all be found at the WoodenBoat Store. www.WoodenBoat.com http://www.WoodenBoat.com

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West Marine
www.westmarine.com http://www.westmarine.com
Fasteners, paint, adhesives, rigging supplies

Hamilton Marine
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Fasteners, paint, adhesives, rigging supplies

MAS Epoxy
www.MASepoxy.com http://www.MASepoxy.com
Epoxy resins, fillers, fiberglass cloth, application tools

WEST System Epoxy
www.westsystem.com http://www.westsystem.com
Epoxy resins, fillers, fiberglass cloth, application tools

Bear Mountain Boats
www.bearmountainboats.com http://www.bearmountainboats.com
Plans, kits, building supplies

Chesapeake Light Craft
www.clcboats.com http://www.clc.com
Plans, kits, building supplies

Pygmy Boats Inc.
www.pygmyboats.com http://www.pygmyboats.com
Plans, kits, building supplies

How To: Loading Your Own Shotgun Slugs

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 18:15:23 +0000

Over the past few months, I’ve been doing a lot of experimenting with slugs and slug guns. In addition to these pumpkin throwers being a logical choice of weapon in the thick northeastern woods, I can’t help but be drawn to guns that throw such massive chunks of lead and poke such gaping holes in targets. Traditionally, the biggest negative factor concerning shotgun slugs has been the cost. Some premium sabot slugs currently cost $20 for a box of five. Considering how often I miss, I simply can’t afford to spend $4 with every pull of the trigger. Just as handloading metallic cartridges will reduce cost to the shooter, handloading slugs will yield a similar result. Here’s how to get started.

Required tools

1. Power drill (a drill press is preferable)

2. Roll crimping tool for every gauge you wish to load

3. Hull vice

4. Powder scale

5. Loading press (if you need to resize/reprime your shotshell hulls)

A Roll crimper (left) and a Hull Vice (right)

Materials

Hulls, primers, powder, and slugs (the exact types of each will depend on what data you are following)

Here are some of the slugs available to the handloader.

From left to right; 12 ga 7/8 oz Blue Force, 12 ga 1-1/8 oz

Dangerous Game Slug,1 oz Lee home cast, BPI 12 ga sabot

with 350 grain .50 cal bullet, 20 ga 1 oz Dangerous Game Slug.

Loading procedure

While there are slight variationsaccording to what slug you are loading, the overall process is essentially same. The following example is of a Blue Force sabot being loaded into a 3 inch multi-hull.

1. Weigh each charge carefully. Slug loading has more in common with metallic cartridge reloading than loading birdshot. To ensure consistency, weigh out each charge using a good powder scale. It helps to Have your hulls primed and ready to go. Most data suggests using fresh, unfired hulls. I have not yet tried recycled hulls with slug data, so I cannot attest to what, if any difference, this variation would make.

2. Charge the hull.

3. Insert the slug and sabot into the hull. Apply pressure until it is pressed firmly against the powder.

4. Lock the hull into your hull vice and roll crimp. Be careful not to over crimp and buckle the hull (a possibility especially if you’re using a drill press to crimp).

5. The slug load is complete.

Variations

If you are loading BPI sabots, it is recommended that a FS12 gas seal be inserted into the hull prior to loading the sabot.

Slugs cast from the lee mold are intended to be placed in a Winchester AA wad and AA hull, and then fold crimped like a standard trap load.

Cost Reduction

I did some math to determine if I was saving any money by loading slugs at home. The costs assume new primed hulls were purchased and I did not factor in the cost of the loading tools. All prices are approximate.

12 ga Dangerous Game Slug = 79 cents/round

12 ga blue force = $1.09/round

Lee 1 oz home cast = Cost can vary greatly depending on how much scavenging for lead and hulls you can do. In any case, they are cheap enough to plink with.

BPI Sabots = 70 cents per round

They’re clearly less expensive than most factory slugs

Buckshot and Birdshot Put to the test

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 16:47:51 +0000

If you spend way too much time on internet shooting forums like I do, you’ll notice a fairly common topic of conversation to be the value of birdshot loads for self defense. I’m not going to pretend to be a tactical expert when I’m really just a guy who likes to fire guns at blocks of jelly, but I can’t help but notice that many of the comparisons I’ve seen between buckshot and birdshot pitted a 00 buck load against a dove/quail birdshot load. I began to wonder how other, stouter, birdshot loads would compare to the tried and true 00 buck. So, I cast the remainder of my ballistics gel into some plastic containers, placed two layers of denim over them and opened up with a selection of turkey, waterfowl and small buckshot loads. All shots were taken at a distance of approximately 15 feet using a modified choke in my Mossberg 835.

Remington 2.75″ 00 Buck

First, I established a sort of control using a Remington 2.75″ 12 pellet load of 00 Buck. Predictably, the pellets went right through the 15″ gel block and buried themselves in the backstop. It’s hard to argue with that kind of performance.

Cross section of the 00 buck cavity

Federal 3.5 Strut Shok 2 oz #6

I decided to get the Federal 3.5″ turkey load over with second. These rounds hold 2 ounces of #6 shot and kill on both ends. The pellets penetrated about 10″ into the block, mangling it in the process. I certainly wouldn’t want to get hit in the chest (or anywhere else) with 2 oz of #6 shot. However, I imagine that the miserable amount of recoil produced by these turkey loads would limit their usefulness for self defense. Recoil makes a quick follow-up shot virtually impossible.

From Top: The entry “wound” created by the 3.5″ turkey load;

Cross Section of the cavity created by the turkey load

Federal 3″ Black Cloud Size BB

Next up was Federal’s Black Cloud #BB steel waterfowl load. The 3″ sends 1 ¼ oz of shot downrange at 1450 f/s. While some of the pellets stopped in the 12″ block, many of them penetrated completely with a few even making it through the 5/8″ plywood at the face of the backstop. The channel in the gel was large and ragged.

From Top: Entry point of the #BB Black Cloud load; Black cloud cavity cross section

Size F Buck Handload

Last up was a XXpellet load of small #F buckshot that I handloaded into a standard Win AA hull and wad. Size F buck pellets are each .22″ in diameter, which means I can potentially pack a lot of them into a 2.75″ or 3″ hull. All but a few of the pellets went right through the 12″ gel block, disappearing into the backstop. The diameter of the cavity is actually wider than that of the 00 Buck.

From Top: #F Buck Entry; #F Buck cavity cross section

So far, it seems that at close range, such as those across the average bedroom, buckshot provides deeper penetration, but birdshot will turn a wide, shallower section of material into hamburger.

12 ga Slugs vs. Bone and Gel

Jason Wimbiscus — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 16:37:59 +0000

12 Ga. Lightfield Commander 3.5″ Magnum Slug

I had one Lightfield Commander IDS slug left after my last round of tests and I was curious to see how they performed in my revised test block. Since this was my last slug, and I didn’t want to risk missing, I shot the block at a distance of only a few feet. Admittedly, this is not a simulation of hunting conditions, but I knew the results would be spectacular, so I set my camera to take a video of the block upon impact. In retrospect, I should have set the camera a little further away from the block as the explosive expansion of the slug blew chunks of gel in all directions, narrowly missing my one and only digital camera. As is demonstrated in the video below, the damage to the block was extensive, to say the least.
While the slug only penetrated 6″ into the gel after defeating the rib-block, that 6″ was almost completely destroyed. The slug itself fragmented into lead chards.

From Top:A giant hole in the rib box ;Frontal view of the carnage; side view of damage cavity.

Home Made Shotgun Slugs

Warning/Disclaimer: All load data posted on this page has proven safe in my gun only, and in some cases are the results of my own experimentation and not manufacturer data. What works in my gun may be dangerous in yours. Use caution and common sense while loading.

Naturally, I had to put all my handloaded slugs through the wringer in regards to both accuracy and terminal performance. I fired a few groups at 50 yards with each slug load, and then fired each one through a layer of bone and into a block of ballistics gel. Unfortunately, due to variations in velocity and accuracy between the loads, it wasn’t practical for me to conduct the terminal performance tests at a realistic hunting range. The gelatin tests were therefore conducted at a range of about 15 feet. In spite of this, the results demonstrate how the slugs compare to each other.

12 ga 1-1/8 oz Dangerous Game Slug

I loaded these in a 3″ Fiocchi hull over 36.0 grains of Herco and roll crimped them. The best 50 yard group I got was 4.5″ at its widest point, but this may not be the fault of the components or the load. I’ve noticed that my Mossberg 835 seems to prefer slugs housed in an impact discarding sabot like those employed in Lightfield slugs and the LCB Blue Force. Still 4.5″ at 50 yards is well within the kill zone of a deer at that range.
Penetration was impressive, having defeated a layer of heavy rib bones, 19″ of gel, and 3.5″ of a wax backer block. In spite of the punishment the slug suffered as it impacted bone, it came to a rest mangled, but intact.

From Top: 4.5″ group at 50 yards; DGS 12 Penetration in the “mock deer”; Recovered DGS 12

12 ga LBC Blue Force 7/8 oz

The blue force is essentially a 20 ga 7/8 oz Dangerous Game slug housed in an impact discarding sabot. As mentioned above, my particular slug gun seems to prefer impact discarding sabots and the accuracy results attest to that. The first four shots I fired grouped to 1-3/4″ at 50 yards, but I pulled the final shot making a 5 shot group of 4″. This was my last shot of the shooting session (over 30 slugs fired) and my shoulder was starting to feel like hamburger, so the flyer is most definitely operator error and not a fault of the load, which consisted of 45 grains of Longshot in a 3″ Multi-hull.

Penetration through bone and gel was impressive at 18″ of gel and 3.5″ of wax. The slug held together quite well with no apparent fragmentation and little expansion.

From Upper Left: Blue Force 4″ group; Blue Force penetration in bone and gel; Recovered Blue Force Slug

12 ga BPI sabot with .50 cal 350 grain lead muzzle loading bullet

Initially, I had a lot of trouble getting the sabots to work in my Mossberg. Initially, I tried a 500 grain .50 cal pistol bullet in front of a hearty load of Longshot as per the manufacturer’s directions. Unfortunately, I could not get such loads to group. Inspection of the fired gas seals and sabots showed them to be mangled with a pin hole burnt through the base of each. I figured that the powder charges were creating too much stress for the components, so I took it on myself to do a little experimentation and come up with a milder load. What seemed to work (so far at least) is 36.0 grains of Herco under the gas seal and sabot inside of a Fiocchi 3″ hull (roll crimped). This is an experimental load, so I don’t recommend anyone else try it. Accuracy wasn’t terrible with a 50 yard 4 shot group of about 5″ (it would have been smaller, but there’s always a flyer).

Against the bone and gel, it fared decently with penetration totaling 18″. The bullet fragmented into small lead shards.

From top: Best group using BPI Sabots with a 350 grain bullet; Home made Sabot Slug Penetration; The fragmented bullet

1 oz cast slugs from a Lee mold

These are by far the cheapest slugs I’ve tried so far. The 1 oz Lee has a hollow base with a “drive key” which is a kind of cross piece that locks into the wad under the stress of firing. The wad engages the rifling allowing the slug to rotate. My 50 yard results yielded a group that was 5.5″ at its widest point. Not bad for something I made myself. I’m also curious to try these out of a different slug gun to see if there is any improvement in accuracy.

The Lee slug performed impressively in the terminal performance test, penetrating 18.5″ of gel and bone and another 5″ of wax backer block. The recovered slug looked almost good enough to be loaded and fired again.

From Top: Lee Slug Group; Drive Key; Notch in wad; Lee Slug Penetration; Recovered Lee 1 oz Slug

.357 Mag rounds vs. the “Mock Deer”

Jason Wimbiscus — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 23:13:07 +0000

The first rounds I fired into the block (which I’m calling the mock deer for lack of a better label) were a selection of .357 magnum loads that performed well during my wax tube tests. My goal was to simulate a long range impact from my carbine, but I didn’t want to risk shooting the block from a distance only to jerk the trigger (which I do every now and again) and ruin the test material with a bad hit. Since I was shooting multiple loads, I would also have to re-zero the scope every time I tried a new one. I wanted to avoid this by shooting the block from a few feet away. I had two options for simulating a long range hit at close range:

1. Reduce the powder charges until the desired velocity was achieved

2. Put the carbine aside and use my Ruger GP-100 to conduct the tests

I was eager to start testing and really didn’t want to spend a lot of time re-developing loads, so, I chronographed my .357 magnum carbine loads out of my 4″ BBL GP-100 to determine if the shorter barrel yielded low enough muzzle velocities to simulate a long range impact from my carbine. The Chart below summarizes my findings.

Load	Carbine MV	Pistol MV	Simulated Distance	Expanded Dia.	Retained Mass
200 gn LFP	1500 f/s	1160 f/s	Approx 130 yards	.358”	195gn
180 gn Rem	1714 f/s	1224 f/s	Approx 130 yards	.448”	137 gn
158 gn rem SJSP	1900 f/s	1350 f/s	Approx 120 yards	.389″	153 gn
158 gn Speer GDHP	1885 f/s	1230 f/s	Approx 150+ Yards	.488”	157 gn
140 gn Barnes XPB	1800 f/s	1486 f/s	Approx 70 yards	.47”	140 gn

To clarify, My 200 grain Lead Flat Point load left the muzzle of my carbine at 1500 f/s and left the muzzle of the GP-100 at 1160 f/s. That 1160 f/s of muzzle velocity should be approximately the same as the 130 yard velocity of the same load fired from a carbine.
Surprisingly, all tested loads performed similarly in the test material. All five rounds penetrated the 2″ block of rib bones, the 15″ gel block and came to rest ½” deep or less in the wax backer block. The photos below detail the results.

The material after the first shot.

The face of the gel block after two shots. Note the bone fragments

The cavity left by the 200 grain cast flat point

Cavity left by the Rem 180 JHP. Entry and exit points are labeled.

Cavity left by the rem 158 grain JSP. Entry and exit points are labeled.

The 158 grain gold Dot impacted near the top of the block making for an instantly viewable damage cavity.

Cavity left by the 140 grain Barnes XPB. Entry point is at the left.

Dissecting the block revealed just how much pulverized bone was inside the cavity.

Recovered bullets from left to right: Cast performance 200 gn LFP; 180 gn Rem JHP; 158 gn Rem JSP; 158 gn Speer GDHP.

Recovered Barnes 140 gn XPB

.35 Remington Tests

Jason Wimbiscus — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 18:41:12 +0000

I finally got around to re-testing the loads I have for my Marlin 336 in .35 Rem. I really like this rifle since it is almost as light and handy as my 1894 but packs a little more punch and with the right loads can give me a 200 yard reach if I need it (which I likely won’t). Recoil is manageable enough to where I can shoot it from the bench all day without suffering any real fatigue, which I can’t say for cartridges in the .30-06 class. While it doesn’t produce the blistering velocities of many of its more modern cousins, a 180-200 grain .358″ bullet is nothing to scoff at, especially at the close to moderate ranges encountered in the northeastern deer woods. With the exception of the 200 grain factory load, all test material was shot at a distance of 100 yards.

180 Grain Speer Jacketed Flat Nose

The first load I tested was a handload consisting of a 180 grain Speer flat point pushed by 39.0 grains of Hodgdon 4895. The chronographed muzzle velocity is 2187 f/s, making for a 100 yard impact velocity of 1866 f/s. The bullet cleared 10.5″ of test material and then embedded 3.5″ into a paraffin backing block. The recovered bullet expanded to a diameter of .51″ and retained 160 grains (89%) of its original mass. Not bad for a round I assembled myself.

200 Grain Hornady Leverevolution Factory Load

Next up was the factory 200 grain Hornady Leverevolution. This bullet incorporates a pointed, flexible, polymer tip that allows cartridges to be loaded into tube magazines without fear of a chain-fire occurring. The result is a higher ballistic coefficient that results in a flatter trajectory. The factory data has the bullet leaving the muzzle at 2225 f/s and impacting a 100 yard target at 1963 f/s. As is shown in the photo, the bullet penetrated 12″ of the test material and an additional 1.5″ of backer. The recovered bullet had folded back on itself making for an expanded diameter of .52″ and a retained mass of 169 grains (85%).

200 Grain Jacketed Round Nose Remington Factory Load

I was admittedly having a hard time hitting the 6″x6″ face of the test block at 100 yards with this load. It may have been a hot barrel, dirty barrel, the cheap scope failing, operator error, or all of the above. Eventually, I got aggravated and moved the block up to the 50 yard line. When I finally hit the block dead center, I was surprised by the results. The bullet had a muzzle velocity of 2080 f/s (according to factory data) and a 50 yard impact velocity of 1881 f/s. Despite the fact that the heavier bullet impacted the target at a slightly higher velocity than the 180 grain Speer, it penetrated noticeably less than the lighter projectile . Depth of penetration was 10″ and the recovered bullet had expanded to a diameter of .59″ and retained 186 grains (93%) of its original mass. It’s interesting to note that my test of the Barnes 140 grain XPB fired from a .357 Mag carbine penetrated to a depth equal to that of the 200 Grain Remington Round nose. However, it appears the rifle bullet created a wider cavity.

200 grain Hornady Round Nose Handload

The results of today’s tests may be a little skewed due to the unusually warm temperatures Vermont has be having lately. The previous tests were conducted when daytime air temperatures were in the 60’s and low 70’s, but in recent weeks, temps have been in the 80’s to near 90. This means the test material was a little on the soft side, which may have exaggerated penetration to some degree. The results are nonetheless interesting.
The load consists of a 200 grain Hornady round nose Pushed by 38.5 grains of H-4895 to a muzzle velocity of a little over 2000 f/s. The 100 yard impact velocity was 1670 f/s and the retained energy should have been around 1239 ft/lbs. The bullet penetrated completely through the 10″ block of test material and through another 7″ of paraffin blocks before finally coming to rest. The recovered bullet retained a mass of 155.5 grains (78%) and had an expanded diameter of .58″. I’m puzzling over why this round penetrated more than the rest and my money is on the temperature